The best kind of family vacations are the ones that don’t require two separate itineraries for kids and grownups. San Sebastian, or Donostia in Basque, is precisely that kind of destination.
From the famed Playa de la Concha and Playa de Ondarreta, beaches framed by a picturesque bayfront promenade and the Alderdi-Eder Park with its two-story carousel at the end of the boardwalk, to manageable hikes that immerse history, amazing architecture and views as far as the eye can see, to unsurpassed quality and innovation in food, San Sebastian entertains in the best way.
Even the varying modes of transportation like the txu txu train and funicular speak to the imagination of kids. The more mundane roving vehicles like taxis? They don’t run amok here. You won’t catch one unless you go to a designated taxi stop.
There’s no shortage of things to do in this resort town where Spanish monarchy used to spend their summers. But what takes much of the hassle out when traveling to San Sebastian with little ones is that the city is small by design, too. Parsing through the city is simple, even for the directionally challenged like yours truly.
I cannot recommend any city more than this epic food mecca than for pint-sized people, who seemingly have an extra stomach just for gelato. And there is gelato aplenty! We admittedly came to San Sebastian for the food, on the good advisory of Anthony Bordain, who passed away while we were here all too coincidentally and tragically. The food is, as you’ll read below, one of the main attractions for kids too. But there are many more to experience that kids will love — so much of which is free!
Here are 10 reasons why San Sebastian is the most kid friendly city I’ve ever visited.
1 . La Concha Beach
There are a few beaches in San Sebastian. But the crescent shaped La Concha Beach is where you should be if you’ve got kids in tow. Backed by an elegant promenade of luxury hotels and beautiful apartments, there are plenty of lodging options that hug this coastline.
We booked an Airbnb right across La Concha Beach, which made for superb access to not only the beach but shops, restaurants, museums and amazing trails.
Travel Tip: Book lodgings near La Concha beach. Right across from the beach are plenty of Airbnbs and the Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra.
Breathtaking sights, fluttering tamed waves, and golden sands that are velvety to the touch make La Concha a unique beach experience.
If you’re looking for bigger waves, Zurriola surf beach just on the other side is famous for its 6-to-8-foot waves. The mellower La Concha Beach or the nearby contiguous Ondarreta Beach will be your best bet if you’re looking to soak up some sun on the beach with your kids.
We spent a good chunk of time each of the four days we were there, even though it rained on two of the days. We just went during pockets of sunshine. The sporadic pitter patter didn’t bother us much. In fact, the rain left a parting gift: the kids loved playing in the puddle of water that became their private pond for the day. We visited San Sebastian during the month of May and it was perfect. The weather was balmy and breezy.
Travel Tip: The best time to visit San Sebastian generally is from May to July. Even though it’s peak tourist season, these months offer the best temperature. San Sebastian is generally a cooler destination, and temps will rarely top 65 degrees during spring and fall.
2. Playgrounds
Playgrounds abound in San Sebastian and they serve quite a different purpose here. They ease the pain of waiting for restaurants, many of which don’t take reservations.
Each time we put our name down, all we had to do was turn a corner, or walk a block or two, and sure enough, there was a playground to pass some time in. I also noticed that while waiting for restaurants, a lot of kids kicked around soccer balls, which you could buy at one of the myriad souvenir shops.
But our favorite playground, and the most striking, was Alderdi-Eder Park. Located on the promenade flanked by the beautiful city hall and La Concha beach, it was quite the focal point with a lit carousel that gave the boardwalk a whimsical vibe.
3. Monte Urgell
Monte Urgull is a hill by the ocean sitting at the heart of the Basque city. Hiking up Urgull was one of the best experiences we had with the kids.
Surrounded by lush greenery and gorgeous flowers, trekking up winding stone paths was a very fairy-tale like experience, especially with the Mota Castle Castillo at the top.
En route to the castle with the Christ statue at the hill’s apex, there are quite a few other sightings to see like a museum and the English Cemetary. Monte Urgell is a fun hike that’s infused with history.
Well-maintained parks offer a variety of exotic vegetation and wide open spaces for kids to run around in. But the true reward of Monte Urgell is the breathtaking panoramic views of San Sebastian. It is an Instagrammer’s heaven.
Related: 5 Reasons Why the Hike Up San Sebastian’s Monte Urgell is Worth it
Travel Tip: Wear good footwear and bring water. Don’t worry too much about using the restroom because there’s one at the top of the hill.
4. Monte Igueldo
The panoramic views here are the best in all of San Sebastian. On a clear day, you can see as far as the coast of France.
The best way to get up Monte Igueldo is by taking an old fashioned funicular where you’ll be greeted by an old fashioned amusement park (more on that below).
Travel Tip: The funicular only takes cash. The cost is approximately 6 euros per person.
Make the experience replete with a drink at the bar on top that’s attached to the Mercure Monte Igueldo Hotel.
Or if you prefer a more posh setting, try the Akelarre, the luxurious, modern hotel with its own 3 Michelin star restaurant. This exclusive enclave offers privileged views and accommodations.
5. Parque de Attraciones
When you first get off the funicular at Monte Igueldo, you’ll be greeted by an outdated amusement park. Like the funicular, the vintage amusement park brings memories of a bygone era.
A word to the wise. Do not go on Sunday, when it is closed — like we did. But there was a concession stand that was open. The kids were disappointed, but we made the most of it with life-sized cotton candy. They were all smiles, of course.
There is a carnival slide, mini-roller coaster, bumper cars, trampolines, and haunted house. It’s not an extravagant amusement park by any stretch of the imagination. But how many amusement parks are conveniently located near lookout points?
Travel Tip: Check amusement park times before going. It remains closed off season and on Sundays.
6. Transportation
While getting around San Sebastian, ‘Are we there yet?’ is not something your kids will utter. From the double decker bus, to the funicular to the txu txu train (“choo choo” in Basque) that roves around the city, even the different modes of transportation appeal to kids. As for the boring taxis? They can’t be hailed from just anywhere. Much like a bus stop, you must wait for a taxi at a designated taxi stand in San Sebastian.
6. Science Eureka Museum
It’s always nice to have indoor options for those rainy days. Located in a business area at the edge of town, the Science Eureka museum has great interactive exhibits for kids to enjoy in multiple languages including English.
7. Aquarium
The San Sebastian Aquarium is considered to be one of the most prestigious in all of Spain. The aquarium occupies an emblematic building dating from 1928 and is set on the edge of the harbor next to the old town with more amazing access to views of the ocean. Definitely worth the visit even on a sunny day, especially when it only cost about 30 euros for a family of four.
Get acquainted with more than 200 species of tanks dedicated to the Bay of Biscay. And don’t forget to traverse through the 360 degree underwater walkway, and experience sharks swimming above you!
8. Parte Vieja
Also known as the Old Town, Parte Vieja sits at the heart of San Sebastian and pumps the lifeblood through its three main arteries: restaurants, bars and shops. This is also where the night life is, which we didn’t get a chance to take advantage of. I blame it on the food coma.
We had a ton of fun walking around, popping into pintxos bars, gelato shops and other commercial shops. Dense pedestrian friendly streets house Baroque and Gothic Churches, surprise plazas, pastry shops, lots of pintxos (translates to small bites) bars, various Basque cultural items, and interesting places to shop.
9. Miramar Palace
The neighboring Miramar Palace adjacent to La Concha Bay (see, everything is accessible!) has beautiful lush gardens and the kind of lawn that makes you want to lie down and stare up into the sky.
The beautiful 19th century building is reminiscent of a traditional English cottage and served as the former residence for the Spanish royal family during their summer getaways.
The doors to the palace usually remain closed but it’s the perfect location for a picnic. Enjoy the stunning gardens with direct views of both hills on its sides and Santa Clara island, and a full panoramic view of the magnificent San Sebastian bay. If you prefer a stroll, there’s a pathway dotted with benches, which winds around the gardens and the palace.
Travel Tip: the interior of the Palace can’t be accessed except during rare summer courses or music concerts.
10. Food
Last but not least, ah… the food. Let’s start with what they’re famous for. San Sebastian is home to the most Michelin-starred restaurants per capita. One of them, Arzak, was placed number 21 on the World’s Best Restaurants list in 2016. Arzak was a delectable bucket-list experience but I wouldn’t bring the kids along.
Related: Review of Arzak
But the casual fare at San Sebastian was just as impressive, especially the food at pintxos bars. And the pintxos bars are perfectly kid friendly. San Sebastian has their own take on tapas, which made for a fun and explosive bite-sized snack perfect for kids. I loved the food at Ganbara.
Located right on the coast, along the Bay of Biscay, San Sebastián has access to the freshest seafood, which is why their paella and pulpos (octopus) and razor clams are out of this world.
Their fresh food markets also offer a colorful array of fruits. Spanish strawberries, tomatoes, and especially olives taste so completely good that they feel like different fruits and vegetables altogether. The cherry on top? Their sweet treats. I had the best cheesecake of my life in San Sebastian at La Vina. It was a fluffy slice of heaven.
But if there was one standout item, it was the steak. It was in a tiny little over-crowded bar where I had the best steak of my life. Nothing beats Bar Nestor’s basque steak. Sizzling, Juicy. Perfection.
Related: Best Places to Eat in Sen Sebastian
Where to Stay
There are a ton of Airbnb options right across La Concha Beach. We traveled with a large group and with kids, so we loved being able to stay in a multi-bedroom apartment with kitchen. I cannot stress how prime the location was with convenient access not only to the beach but Parte Vieja. But if you’d rather stay at a hotel, there are some very notably plush accommodations to consider.
- Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra sits right on La Concha Beach and offers unbeatable views.
- Hotel Maria Christina, while not on the beach, is located very close to old town and walking distance from the beach. This famed hotel exudes old school glamour and opulence.
- Akelarre sits atop Monde Igueldo (one of our top 10 places to visit) offers unobstructed, jaw-dropping views. The accommodations are modern and state of the art.
